Looking for a place to live in Kathmandu?
I’ve gotten this questions a few times as well: “What place can you recommend?” A couple of options springs to mind: Lazimpat (the embassy area) and Sanepa (the UN+NGO “colony”). I heard that Lazimpat (certain areas anyway) never have power cuts (!!!), a big plus during winter. It’s very central and close to Thamel, if you prefer to see other foreigners every day, get a decent pizza etc. So think that’ll be my recommendation. But it’s not exactly the cheapest place in town.
Sanepa is technically not in Kathmandu, but in Patan, across the river. And a third option is staying in Boudha in the North-eastern part of town. It’s not really central but fairly popular with Tibetan Buddhism students and other non-aligned expats, myself included. They have pizza, coffee and supermarkets here as well.
Check the Patan / Lalitpur map below or see the Kathmandu map at the end of the previous post.
If you’re on a more temporary visit in Kathmandu, I have some old copy-and-paste hotel recommendations I wrote for another purpose, see just below. Finally, for a bit of Himalaya trekking, I have found this Himalayan trekking blog particular useful. Ok, on to the hotel recommendations now:
— The 100$/night-kind –
Dwarika’s
“The 8th world heritage site” of Nepal. A bit on the Eastern outskirts of town, in the direction of the airport, but reeeally a nice place. The best, in my opinion (and that of Richard Gere). Doesn’t look much from outside, but just wait till they open the gate for you!
Radisson’s
Centrally located on Lazimpat, they probably have the best food in town (sorry Mom). Otherwise pretty standard five-star thing.
Yak and Yeti
Nepal’s first western-style hotel founded by the legendary Russian Boris Lissanevitch in the 1950’s (read his book “Tiger for Breakfast”) and his Danish wife. Today, it offers luxury accommodation in the historic settings of an old Rana palace theatre, the Lal Durbar. It is conveniently located in central Kathmandu on Durbar Marg.
Godavari Village Resort
Located about 10 km south of Kathmandu, it’s a perfect getaway from the hectic city life. Offers massages, jacuzzi, swimming pool, sauna, fitness centre, beauty parlor, children’s playground and other activities. If the weather permits, there’s great views of the distant Himalayan peaks.
– The 10$/night-kind –
Khumbu Hotel
The Boudha area surprisingly doesn’t have that many good places to put up in. But this is one of the few better options. Right on the inner circle, facing the stupa… Update May’09: It’s now changed name and owner, but still good, especially the location! Can’t remember it’s new name, stand by for next update. Also check out the:
Nepal Bed & Breakfast
New on this list, located in Tinchuli about 10 miutes walk from Boudha. Should be really good, but I have a feeling you’ll need to pay more than $10… Will check it out…
Kathmandu Guest House
Smack in the middle of Thamel. Nice garden, ok rooms. The owner, Karna Sakya, is an interesting guy, author of several books in both English and Nepali. He should be able to give you road advice if you’re heading into Dolpo-land. Update May ‘09: Had a friend stay there last week, seems it’s more like $20 per day now. WiFi available on a pay-per-use basis.
— The 3$/night-kind –
Whatever
For 200 rupees a night you can usually get a decent room with your own tv-set or bathroom. Maybe even both, for 50 rupees extra. Just try to look like a lost tourist and go anywhere near Thamel, the hawkers will come jumping at you when they see your backpack. Alternatively, the same holds true on the less tourist-kettle-like old Hippie hangout “Freak Street”.
– Outside Kathmandu: –
Bandipur Mountain Resort
Really nice, stayed there a weekend a while back. It’s about halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, then 5-10 km up a mountain road. Depending on your preferences, you might want to hire a car to take you there. We bummed it and went by public bus, then walked up the hill. Nice walk as well! Try asking around for the scenic shortcut though.
Dhulikhel Mountain Resort / Dhulikel Lodge Resort
Can’t remember which one it was, I popped in there for a few hours. Didn’t stay overnight, but it looked well nice. Check http://www.catmando.com/dhulikhel-mt-resort/ and http://www.dhulikhellodgeresort.com/ - and also the:
Dwarikas Himalayan Shangri-La
Also in Dhulikel, 1-2 hours drive out of Kathmandu. Haven’t been inside, but being part of the Dwarika’s group, I’m sure it’s a nice place to stay. Generally, Dhulikel is a great place to stay for a day or two if you want to do nothing more than relaxing!
Nagarkot
Another popular village get-away. Nothing much besides all the hotels and all the hills. But nice and easy. And you don’t have to pay a fortune. Can’t remember hotel names though, sorry…
Map of Patan / Lalitpur. Click to see big size! (despite the embedded copyright notice, it is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.1, downloaded from lirung.com)
Award-winning Danish photographer and photojournalist, based on Bornholm Island (Denmark) in the Baltic Sea. 5 years experience working in Nepal/Asia.
I like what you had to say here. I don’t know how current it is, or if that’s really important. The city is there, and like most places and most lives, it’s what you make it. I’ve got a friend, and a friend of a friend, coming to Kathmandu, They are flying out of Prague on Sept 15,2009 for a 8 month visit. I think they’re looking for, what everyone looked for, who ever can to Kathmandu; the things they could not find where they are coming from. I think the world need to watch ” Waiting for Godot ” at least once or maybe twice, before they go anywhere. I do understand though, the need to cross the waters between, climb that highest mountain, and where possible, live for a moment the impossible dream, but I have discovered that no matter where I go, I’m still always where I’m at: Trying to pay the rent, the net, the phone and other bills, and wondering what in the Hell the cat is staring at. I’ve had somewhere between 1 and 6 cats at anyone time, here in Prague for the last 11 years. They come and go as they please (they have their own cat door) but of late there is only one, and he’s totally paranoia. I thinking about Kathmandu, myself. I lived 1967 and the Summer of Love, in SF and that was and always will be unforgettable. My best friend, Kristyna, says I’m to old to go there (I’m 70 in March,) but I’m not sure that is true. It’s true I don’t move as quick as I did in 1967, but I can still kick my heels on the dance floor. So, I may come myself to see what there is to see. Most likely it will be much the same as I see here: slow walking old men, pretty girls and Flim-Flam Man. I want to say, your blog very helpful, I’ll come again. Edmund, in Prague
There actually used to be this saying that “Whatever you’re looking for, even the stuff you don’t know that you’re looking for, go to Kathmandu and you’ll find it!”
Looking back, guess I’ve found a lot of things here. My profession, my calling, my wife, even my “religion” - if you can call it that. Let’s call it “a divine kingdom within ourselves”.
But guess the trick is, since we’re in the profound corner this morning, that you shouldn’t come here searching too hard. Just be open and let things come to you! Oh well…
And more down to earth, I’ve seen people in their 80’s hiking the mountains here!
“Waiting for Godot” - haven’t had the opportunity to see it yet. But I will, some day. Thanks for your recommendation Edmund!
I have been given a great opportunity to become a regional (multi-country) creative head for a multi-national global advertising network and I plan to leave the comforts of Dubai (where we have lived to 17 happy years) and move to Kathmandu with my family. My wife is looking for the security and warmth of a nice gated community inhabited by like-minded foreign expats (preferably in Patan area). My budget is 40,000 to 55,0000 per month.
We did visit KT twice in the last 3 months to check it out. If any of you have any suggestions, do share them with us. And Morton, being in advertising, I would LOVE to work with you on some of my campaigns so be sure that I will get in touch with you.
Cheers,
Shehzad
Hi Shehzad,
yes, you should definitely try to get a “full service” apartment, with a caretaker to deal with all the practicalities, perhaps someone to assist with the cooking/cleaning part. That’ll be my recommendation. Gated community or not, depends on how much padding you’ll need… You can get nice little place for less than you mentioned.
Also just have to say it: Buying real estate is complicated, but perhaps option too. There’s really lot of money to be made! But you need to know what you’re doing all the way through.
Unfortunately, your friendship and work offer is pretty bad timing as I’m about to leave Nepal. I’ll be back every now and then for shorter stays, just not based here any longer… But keep in touch, we’ll meet up sooner or later!
Dear Morten Svenningsen,
A friend of mine redirected your page. Thank you for mentioning my name in the context of Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel. As you know, apart from Kathmandu Guest House, I operate 7 hotels all over the country including Park Village Resort Hotel in Kathmandu. I am very glad to inform that Nepal has been listed 6th position in Top Ten Travel Recommendation for 2010. In Nepal section, Park Village is one of the only two hotels that has been recommended . I think your reader will be delighted to visit our websites http://www.ktmgh.com. Thanks.
Karna Sakya